Monday, August 20, 2007

Lubumbashi—Ville D’Esperance

3. August 1, 2007 Evening, Lusaka

I called Nawaj this morning and asked him to help me get to the airport and sort out the formalities for me there—and boy am I glad that I did. He showed up at the hotel just about on time, and was in a cheerful mood that belied what he described as a potential bout with malaria. We were at the airport in short order. On the way there we passed under an arch reading "Lubumbashi--Ville D'Esperance." I asked Nawaj if he thought things were getting better in Lubumbashi, and he allowed that they were, albeit slowly. And I do suppose that it is on the whole better to endure most measures of poverty than to be shelled and looted.

At the airport, things began like this: We got to the entrance gate. There was a car ahead of us whose driver looked like he was being harangued or shaken down, but Nawej was waved right through. Then, instead of parking in the main lot with everyone else, we pulled in through a corrugated sliding gate and parked alongside the airport officials' cars. Very VIP. Next came an odd bit’ We entered the airport through a side door that opened onto a white woman sitting at a computer. This woman paid us no heed as we walked by. In the main hall, my senses were drowned in a tidal wave of chaos. Far from the chaos of the bazaar, it had an whiff of anticipated pillage to it. Hundreds of Congolese were milling about, shouting, jostling. "This is no place for you," said Nawej's look before he plunged into the crowd with me in tow. He literally budged people out of the way as we proceeded, and I would follow along giving them little afterjostles. It was kind of fun. With most of the throng behind us, we now passed the ticket counters. I noticed that the woman staffing the Air Zimbabwe counter was asleep. And then—get this—we simply barged through security. Or almost did, I should say. Just when I thought no one was going to say a thing, a rather informal-looking guard protested that I hadn't submitted my bag for inspection. Nawej turned around. He gave this insolent upstart a flat stare. "This man," he said, "is my friend. Nous sommes amis.” The guard shrugged his shoulders and let it slide. Now Nawej had me sit down and hand him my passport and plane ticket. And off he went to sort out what he rather slyly called the “procedures officielles.” He came back about 20 minutes later bearing a boarding card and a passport newly graced with a Congolese exit stamp. In presenting them to me, he was the picture of courtesy. I thanked him sincerely. He brushed it off, saying "Mais c'est pour ça qu'on est là."

I did manage to hand him $30. I was unsure what would satisfy him--as so often in African moments of transaction it was left up to me--but this seemed to do the trick. In response to my expectant look, ’e said “Il n’y a pas des problème.” A very agreeable African-style transaction, all tolled. Nawej stood up to leave, and I told him I hoped to be seeing him again within two months—and I do, when I return to make my bid to reach Lutz Kayser's rocket launch site.

Just two hours later I was on my way to Lusaka in Air Zimbabwe’s ratty and rickety 737. I do hope to avoid flying on any of that airline’s regional liners again. It doesn’t exactly inspire the greatest confidence in their technical skills and attention to detail when the in-flight magazine is rife with errors of both orthography and fact. Viz., "[such and such necessitates] a flourishing economy and a strong foundation of political stability, both of which Zimbabwe can without doubt lay claim to." A classic instance of the African hybrid of dissimulation with a somewhat stilted rhetoric. So--back in Lusaka, and again very glad to be here. And tomorrow: New York!

~

While at the Hotel Belle Vue I was approached on two occasions by functionaries of the Congolese government. They both had business proposals. The first one had a clear plan in mind for bringing cybercafes to the Katangan bush. I was tempted to suggest beginning with boreholes, elementary hygiene, and arithmetic, but I humored him. He was a young 38, Katangan, and like members of government throughout most of the continent, very keen to leverage his position as a government official by getting into private enterprise. He was in the ministry of mines. He mentioned a variety of other business opportunities, but none of them outwardly had anything to do with mining. Not that they must. The things he mentioned were refrigerated transport, dialysis equipment, spare parts for graders, and other road construction kit. “Katanga is exploding, my friend. Now is the time to get in." But his eyes were desperate, his demeanor defeated. I could not help thinking that in reality, Katanga was imploding as everything in it of value was being extracted, just as it had been for the longest time. The centers of industry have for 100 years been milking Katanga through a catheter thrust into its jugular. Why should that be changing now? The last thing I wanted to do was "get in." I was counting off the minutes between me and that Air Zimbabwe 737. Our meeting was interrupted when a woman suffering from malaria fainted as she was descending the staircase. She landed with a tremendous thud. Some porters came to carry her away, but no one could say whether she had broken anything or not.

The other man who approached me with some commercial interest in mind was a member of parliament, first name Marc. He was elderly and awkward, but also disarmingly earnest and friendly. I gathered that he was also looking for a foreign business partner. The problem was that his French was almost incomprehensible to me, and I had trouble making out what line of dealings he wanted to get into. I did ascertain one thing, however: He was from Kolwezi.tart annsolent upstart an;'tunter was asleep.

~

4. August 20, 2007 Brooklyn

The last thing I will mention about my brief experience in the Congo will be the name of the Indonesian bar of soap waiting for me in the shower when I checked in: Lifebuoy. I will add that that bar made it back to New York, and is only just now starting to wear thin. At least I know where to get a Lifebuoy the next time I go to the Congo!right through led and looted. h malaria..

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